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Showing posts from October, 2017

Urban Decay's De-Slick Oil Control Makeup Setting Spray

Sensitivity Score: 3/5 I have mixed feelings about this product. It's designed essentially to do as it says: control oil, keep your makeup in place, and prevent shine. I used it for about three weeks, putting it on every day over my makeup. Pros: It kept my makeup in place, particularly my eye makeup which was a surprise it prevented shine mostly, I did get shiny around my T-zone by the end of each day. Granted, I was walking around outside in humidity so that might not be the products fault.  Cons:  It felt a little tacky  I was kind of heavy and uncomfortable at first, it did settle eventually though I did get a couple pimples in odd places for me-- around the sides of my face and nose.  Ingredients:  Aqua / Water, Alcohol Denat., PVP, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium...

Gimme Brow by Benefit

Sensitivity Score: 1/5 :( I wanted to love this product, I really really did. I love Benefit and have historically been happy with most of their products. However, I received a sample of this and after using it for less than a week, I developed cystic, painful acne under my eyebrows and then my eyebrows started to fall out!  As someone with already thin eyebrows, I was horrified. I gave it a scathing review on Sephora and opted not to buy the full size. Broke me out horribly It did do what it said- it was an easy to put on product that instantly made my brows look fuller.  BUT MY EYEBROWS FELL OUT ***UPDATE*****  Benefit has RECALLED this product.  Ingredients:  Water, Mica, Glyceryl Stearate, Polypropylene, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Peg-100 Stearate , Polyacrylamide, Phenethyl Alcohol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Glyceryl Caprylate, Laureth-7, Panthenol, Glycerin, Silica, Althaea Officinalis Root Extract, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Ben...

PEG-100 Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate on its own does not have high risks associated with it. It is a commonly used solvent in cosmetics. HOWEVER, because of the way it's made it is at high risk for being contaminated by ethylene oxide and 1,4 dioxane, both of which have numerous health risks and are known carcinogens. **Some researchers estimate 1,4 dioxane contamination to affect nearly 46% of cosmetic products. YIKES https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/721388/PEG-100_STEARATE/#.WfaWkxOPKu4 https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/726229/ETHYLENE_OXIDE/#.WfaWpxOPKu4 https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/726331/1%2C4-DIOXANE/#.WfaXjROPKu4 http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0927775715000382

Fresh Creme Ancienne

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Sensitivity Score: 5/5 Fresh Creme Ancienne is a unique and special product. "Inspired by the world's first cream", each jar is made by hand. As much as I love this product--and really, I do love it-- I am loathe to recommend it because then I have to share. It goes on like no other product I've ever tried and feels really, genuinely soft.  Soft and calming light, nearly undetectable but pleasant scent Main drawback-- it is very expensive, clocking in at about $145 per jar It does last a surprising amount of time, mostly because very little goes a long way All natural, uncommon ingredients, and NONE raise a red flag Ingredients:  LIMNANTHES ALBA (MEADOWFOAM) SEED OIL, AQUA (WATER), CERA ALBA (BEESWAX), PENTYLENE GLYCOL, PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS (SWEET ALMOND) OIL, CITRUS LIMON (LEMON) PEEL OIL, OSMANTHUS FRAGRANS FLOWER EXTRACT, ROSA DAMASCENA FLOWER WATER, ANTHEMIS NOBILIS FLOWER OIL, ORMENIS MULTICAULIS FLOWER WAX, TOCOPHEROL, SODIUM CARBONATE, ...

Dimethicone

Dimethicone is a controversial ingredient found in a many skin care products. While many beauty and skincare bloggers argue that its silicone base and synthetic qualities make it a red flag, there is no hard evidence to suggest it is an irritant or that it causes acne. In low quantities, it can't "trap in sweat and dirt" or form a "plastic-like layer on the skin". It is rated safe and non-irritating by multiple peer-reviewed and evidence based parties. One even concluded that it had protective qualities against irritants. http://www.skintherapyletter.com/2017/22.3/2.html https://www.google.com/patents/US8987180 http://www.ingentaconnect.com/content/wk/won/2015/00000042/00000005/art00012 https://www.webmd.com/drugs/2/drug-18321/dimethicone-topical/details#uses http://europepmc.org/abstract/med/16439809

Propanediol/ Proplyne Glycol

Propanediol is a colorless, odorless, viscous solvent often used in skin products.  Can cause irritation in rare circumstances No studies showing many benefits in the form of propanediol.  mostly considered safe  https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/723043/PROPANEDIOL/#.WfZ5nROPKu4 https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/705315/PROPYLENE_GLYCOL/#.WfZ8GhOPKu4 https://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/phs/phs.asp?id=1120&tid=240

Cyclopentasiloxane

Extremely common product in skincare products, cyclopentasiloxane is a silicon based cyclic compounds. While deemed safe in low concentrations, at higher concentrations cyclopentasiloxane has been shown to cause endocrine disruptions Has been shown to reduce appearance of scars additionally, there are environmental concerns associated with bioaccumulation there is some concern that prolonged usage could cause endocrine disruption In 2010, the European commission concluded that it was safe for topical use at low concentrations but should not be inhaled, ie. NOT USED IN HAIR CARE AEROSOL PRODUCTS The Dermatological Review Polysilicone base for scar treatment Silicone-based composition for skin treatment  Environmental Working Group Opinion of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) – Final version of the opinion on decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (cyclopentasiloxane, D5) in cosmetic products

Collagen, what it is and what it isn't

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Over the past 20 or so years, collagen has often been hailed as a holy grail of anti-aging skin care products, and has recently evolved into a variety of collagen health drinks, sprays, creams, and more. What collagen is:  Collagen is an important intracellular structural protein, making up about 30-35% of total body protein. It is a triple helix rope-like protein fibril made up of smaller individual tropocollagen molecules. Vitamin C is a critical cofactor in the formation of collagen cross linkages. Dietary collagen has been shown to have numerous health benefits.  It has positive effects on bone health  General reduction in joint deterioration associated with aging Improved skin elasticity reduced wrinkle depth What collagen is not:  Collagen is NOT the holy grail of topical skin care. Collagen is a large protein that cannot penetrate the stratum corneum (pictured right), so it is of no use to the underlying skin. The stratum corneum...

Niacinamide

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Niacinamide is the physiologically active form of vitamin B3 or niacin*. It is a common ingredient in many skin products. Niacinamide and its derivatives are important parts of many biosynthetic pathways. The coenzymes involved in the usage of niacinamide have been shown to deplete with age. It was also shown that localized increases in niacinamide (ie. topical application) increased intracellular niacinamide coenzymes. *Niacin, the inactive form, was shown to topically produce flushing. What does topical application of niacinamide do? increase intracellular niacinamide coenzymes stimulate new collagen synthesis increase ceramide synthesis leading to increased stratum corneum barrier function prevents negative consequences of UV radiation exposure and improves photoaged skin Reduces hyper-pigmentation via prevention of melanosome transfer Decreases Acne via anti-inflammatory properties  via decrease in sebaceous lipid synthesis (decreases sebaceous oil produ...

What does physiologically active mean?

Physiologically active , also referred to as bioactive,   refers to whether a compound is in the chemical form available to be used by the body. Many chemicals and compounds are inactive until they are activated  by enzymes or processes used in the body.  For example, Vitamin D (D2 or D3) is biologically inactive   as it is sold or consumed. Vitamin D goes through a 2 step activation process, first in the liver, then the kidney, to become  1,25-dihydroxycholecalciferol, which then goes on to have a variety of physiological effects. 

Dr. Jart Waterfuse Ultimate Hydro Gel

Dr. Jart Waterfuse Ultimate Hydro Gel Sensitivity Score: 4.5/5 First off, this stuff LASTS. I bought it for the first time in January of 2015 and only had to replace it in September of 2017.  One $39 jar lasted 21 MONTHS. I use it twice a day on most of my face It has never broken me out .  It is unscented and very light, as a product of it being water based It absorbs into the skin really well and is unnoticeable within a minute and sits very well under makeup  Really soothes irritated skin and feels cool and pleasant to put on  its effectiveness is a bit in question- It absorbs very quickly and I'm not sure that it would solve a major dry skin issue on its own.  Additionally, many ingredients are synthetic, which some find irritating Full Ingredients List Mineral Complex: Blended with major skin-identical minerals that help maintain the moisture balance and moisture circulation of skin. -Belgium Hot Spring Water: Contains minerals to ...